Sacred Spaces

I find it hard to believe that I have been in Bethlehem for almost six weeks.  My time here is about half over and there is so much work still to be done and so many people I would like to meet. My heart is full of stories to tell but I have been overwhelmed with how to really share them – there is so much to say!  

So, here’s one that started a couple of weeks ago.Two dear Atlanta friends, Barbara and Fran Exley, were in Bethlehem for 5 days as part of a Israel/Palestine witness trip. They kindly allowed me to tag along to some of their visits and meetings (more about those in a later post).  One incredible opportunity presented itself as this group secured an invitation to visit Al Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock.  Visitors are regularly allowed on the Temple Mount but very rarely are allowed inside these two Muslim shrines.  As a big history nerd, no way was I gonna pass this up!  Not only are these two of the holiest sites in Islam but they are incredibly beautiful historic sites. 

Dome of the Rock

Al Aqsa Mosque

Our guide was Muhammad (of course!) and both sites were as majestic as I expected. The Dome of the Rock (most recognizable as the one with the gold dome) was built in 691 and is one of oldest buildings in Islam and Jerusalem. It is built over the Foundation Stone, where Muslims believe Abraham was asked to sacrifice Ishmael (or Isaac, as Christians and Jews believe).  It is also believed to have been built on site of Second Temple that was destroyed by the Romans in 70AD.  Jews think the Holy of Holies was possibly located here so, in general, Jewish religious authorities have forbidden Jewish people from coming near it or even onto Temple Mount to avoid stepping foot on what might be the Holy of Holies. It is their holiest site and they pray to it from the Western Wall, as close as they can get without being on the Temple Mount.  The interior is stunning – every square inch is covered with richly colored tile and mosaics, much of it decorated with Arabic calligraphy.  Muhammad the guide was very enthusiastic about showing us every last detail.  One word kept going through my head…wow.

Interior of Dome of the Rock

Exterior of Dome of the Rock

Interior of Al Asqa Mosque

Al Aqsa Mosque was rebuilt in 1035 for third time after being destroyed by earthquakes and is the third holiest site in Islam. Unlike the Dome of the Rock which has twelve sides, Al Aqsa is more square and feels like a big church with no seating as rugs cover every square inch of the floor.  But, also it was very grand and beautiful.  As an American, I find it hard to grasp the concept of buildings being 1000+ years old.

Sadly, Al Aqsa Mosque is now the site of growing controversy and tension.  For decades the status quo has been that the Temple Mount is primarily for Muslims; others can visit, just not pray here.  In recent months, extremists from the Jewish community have been demanding, and receiving, increased access to Al Asqa Mosque for prayers.  This has provoked a backlash of protests from Muslims, naturally fearing that Israel has plans to change this status quo.  Protests have then led Israeli authorities to restrict access to the Temple Mount to women and men over 50 and last week they even closed the Temple Mount entirely for a day for the first time since 1967.  The Temple Mount should be a place of beauty and sacredness to so many, but more often is a battleground used to provoke and inflame.   

So what does all this mean for me as a Christian living here for this short season?  The holy sites are fascinating places to visit and remind me of the foundations of my faith, but Christ lives in me and not in the "dead stones" of these old places.  It is tragic to me that others don't see it the same way, that their faith relies so much on a place for expression.  But more importantly, I am witnessing injustice on a scale that makes me burn with anger at times and breaks my heart at others. But since I have prayed for my heart to be broken by the things that break the heart of God, I suppose I am getting an answer to my prayers.  Figuring out what to do with this is the hard thing.   That is a work in progress.