Holy Spirit on the Move

As some of you know, I returned to the Middle East for 11 days this past March. The Outreach Foundation, an organization I have known for many years which supports the Presbyterian Church around the world, invited me to join them on a trip of solidarity to visit Christians in Lebanon and Iraq. 

Map of Northern Iraq before ISIS

Needless to say, the idea of me traveling to a region that is rife with conflict gave my friends and loved ones considerable pause, to put it mildly. But I felt I could not pass up the opportunity to return to Lebanon after an absence of 11 years as well as visit the Presbyterian community in Iraq about whom I’ve heard so much.  God has given me a love for this place, these people and, particular, his church in the Middle East. As Pentecost has just passed and I’ve been reflecting upon this trip, I want to share some of my experiences with you. I can’t share it all in one post but here’s a start.

The vision for this trip was two-fold; to visit the Outreach Foundation’s church partners who are ministering to Iraqi refugees in their midst, both in Lebanon and in northern Iraq and to, hopefully, bring a sense of encouragement and solidarity to both the partners and those who’ve been displaced.

Our team - Mark Mueller from Huntsville, AL,
Marilyn Borst from the Outreach Foundation
and Ben McCaleb from San Antonio, TX. 

We spent three days in Lebanon (which is stable and not experiencing the unrest and violence afflicting their neighbors) and a week in Erbil, capital of the Kurdish region in northern Iraq. Unlike the areas in northern and western Iraq that ISIS controls, the Kurdish region has been under Kurdish control since before the Iraq War and, therefore, is relatively stable, safe and even somewhat prosperous, from what I could tell. As to our safety, our partners in Iraq know their situation intimately and took extreme caution with our safety. In all this, we trusted God to both guide us and protect us.

A little bit of history before I continue. The Presbyterian Church in the Middle East is the product of American and British missionary efforts in the 19^th century. Historic Presbyterian communities exist in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, Iran and Egypt. The Presbyterian Church in Lebanon and Syria is part of one body (the Evangelical Synod of Syria and Lebanon), that predates the creation of these two countries and has approximately 40 churches, the largest of which are primarily in Syria. 

Many of the Syrian churches have suffered greatly since the Syrian civil war broke out in 2011, occasionally getting caught in the crossfire (two churches have been destroyed). 

Evangelical Church of Aleppo, Syria

Presbyterians in several cities are among the millions of Syrians displaced by the fighting. Ironically, several Presbyterian churches welcomed Iraqi refugees during the years of the Iraq War only to see their own members become refugees within their own country a few years later. In addition, refugees from Syria have streamed into Lebanon, swelling that population by 50%. The Synod has responded to this crisis by providing housing, food, medicine and other assistance in Lebanon and Syria, with generous support from the Outreach Foundation. 

What was already a terrible, enduring crisis got exponentially worse last spring and summer when ISIS started claiming large swaths of territory in Syria and Iraq. You’ll recall the horrific stories of ISIS taking over Mosul, destroying churches, and forcing Christians to convert, flee with only the clothes on their back, or die.  You’ll recall the stories of ISIS’ attempts to destroy ancient Yazidi communities, forcing tens of thousands of them onto a remote mountain where many died of exposure. You’ll recall ISIS taking girls and young women captive to be used as slaves or sold as wives. In the face of ISIS, Christians who’ve called the Ninevah Plain of northern Iraq home since, literally, the time of Pentecost fled, leaving behind all they owned as well as a way of life that dates back centuries.

 

The Presbyterian Church in Mosul dates back to the early 1800’s. Early in the Iraq War the church was forced to close due to sectarian violence in the area. In recent years, only one faithful Presbyterian family remained, the al-Saka sisters. 

Mary and Hana al-Saka from Mosul

In the early morning hours on June 6, a date that many Iraqi Christians call “our 9/11”, the sisters left Mosul with only their documents, the church’s official papers, and a few blankets. Like many fleeing in front of ISIS, they assumed they’d return once things settled down and ISIS was forced out. Of course, that did not happen. The sisters have since heard their home and their church have been burned.  They’ve settled in Erbil with no plans to ever return to Mosul. Their hearts are broken but their faith in God and his great provision remains intact.

In the midst of this horror, the Presbyterian Church of Iraq and the Evangelical Synod of Syria and Lebanon are providing refuge and aid. Some Iraqis have fled to Beirut and southern Lebanon where the Synod is providing food and other support. The Presbyterian Church of Kirkuk in Iraq has taken in 16 displaced families, actually housing 72 people on their church property since August of 2014. In addition, they are assisting the Syrian Orthodox Church who’ve had whole villages of Christians displaced.

Displaced family of 8 sharing one room
in the Presbyterian Church of Kirkuk

As this past Sunday was Pentecost, I’ve been reflecting upon my time in Lebanon and Iraq. The meaning of Pentecost resonates much more deeply after spending 11 days in the presence of such faithful witnesses.  Pentecost marks when the Holy Spirit descended upon the disciples and transformed them from frightened and bewildered followers of Jesus into courageous men who would take Christ’s message into the world and eventually face martyrdom.   

Just as the Holy Spirit moved through the early church starting on Pentecost, the Holy Spirit is moving in our world today. Nowhere is that more evident than in the Middle East as his church has endured incredible suffering and persecution, and hundreds have been martyred because they profess faith in Christ.  As a wise pastor and dear friend in Lebanon, Rev. Adeeb Awad, said to me, “God is a God of history. We build on this as we are instruments of God’s will.” No matter what comes next, these faithful Christians are determined to stay, to serve, to be a witness to the Gospel, whatever form that may take.

I have much more to share about my time in Iraq; stories about visiting a camp with 23,000

Children receiving bread rations in
a Yazidi refugee camp

displaced Yazidis, of the courageous work of young Syrian Orthodox priests who shepherded their flocks out of harm’s way in front of ISIS, and of the 16 families living in the Presbyterian Church in Kirkuk. I hope you will come back to read more. 

In the meantime, I invite you to commit to pray for the Christians in the Middle East, particularly those in Syria, Lebanon and Iraq who have stayed and for those who continue to serve the stranger, the refugee, the dispossessed, in Christ’s name. I also invite you to support the Church during these difficult times through a gift to the Outreach Foundation.  As Paul states in his letter to the Romans, “…we know that in all things God works for the good of those who love him, who have been called according to his purpose”. (Roman 8:28)  Only God can know what that “good” might be at this point, but I thank him for faithful servants, none the less.  Until later…

The Story of Hebron

February 24^th marked an important anniversary in the life of Hebron, the ancient biblical site and largest city in the West Bank. Since first visiting Hebron last October I've wanted to share the story of this place. Considering this anniversary and recent events, this seems like the right time.

The Bible first mentions Hebron in Genesis 23 when Abraham purchased a plot of land to serve as a burial cave for his wife Sarah. 

Interior of Ibrahimi Mosque

That burial site, known as the Cave of the Patriarchs and now enclosed by the Ibrahimi Mosque, is the traditional burial place of Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, and Jacob and Leah. David was also anointed King of Israel in Hebron. The city has played a role in many wars, being conquered by the Romans, the Arabs in 636, the Crusaders in 1099, Saladin in 1187 and it became part of the Ottoman Empire in the 1500’s.

Hebron has changed hands many times in the 20^th century, as well, and is now under Israeli military control as part of the Occupied Palestinian Territories in the West Bank. Hebron is one of Judaism’s holiest cities and also a sacred site for Muslims. It is also one of the most intense locations in the struggle between extremist Jewish settlers, the occupying Israeli forces that protect them and the Palestinian community that has resided in Hebron for centuries.

On February 24^th in 1994 American-born doctor and Israeli settler Baruch Goldstein walked into the Ibrahimi Mosque, full during the Ramadan feast, waited for worshipers to kneel in prayer, and opened fire with his military issued rifle. He killed 29 Palestinians and injured 125 more before being beaten to death by other worshipers. Israel, the Diaspora Jewish community and the international community condemned the attack as an act of terror. Yet some hailed his actions as heroic and have made his grave a place of pilgrimage. 

Wire added to protect businesses from settler trash

In the ensuing months and years, things have changed in Hebron but only to the detriment of the victims of this massacre, Palestinians. Immediately following the attack, over 500 Palestinian businesses on Shuhada Street, the main shopping district in Hebron, were forced to close and had their doors welded shut by the Israeli Defense Force (IDF). These shops are still closed 20 years later. 

Parts of Shuhada Street are completely off limits to Palestinians, forcing some families to climb ladders and crawl over walls to gain access into their homes from the rear. What was once a vibrant shopping area now resembles a ghost town where settlers who live above the street regularly pelt Palestinians below with trash and debris.

Israel divided the Ibrahimi Mosque into two halves, one for Muslims and one for the Jewish settlers in Hebron, the extremist community of which Goldstein had been a member. Numerous new checkpoints have been established throughout Hebron, severely restricting the ability of Palestinians to go about daily life, checkpoints that only Palestinians are forced to use. Palestinian children have to pass through these to attend school and are often denied access.

Hebron’s Old City is home to 500 illegal Jewish settlers along with 1500 IDF, border patrol and police to protect and secure their presence. Settlers in Hebron routinely attack and harass Palestinians. Palestinian property (like olive trees) are damaged or destroyed on a regular basis.  Palestinian children are not immune from such abuse, either, as the IDF regularly fires stun grenades and tear gas at school children and their schools.

CPT volunteer walking children to school

They are also harassed and assaulted, by adult settlers, on their way to school. Different laws apply to Jewish settlers than to Palestinians in Hebron.  The IDF can arrest any Palestinian starting at age 12 yet they cannot touch a Jewish settler for any reason.  In fact, the IDF often stands by and watches while Palestinians and their property are attacked by the settlers. Some of the greatest restrictions against and harassment of Palestinians occur in Hebron.

Fortunately, all of these abuses are well documented by bold and heroic volunteers who serve with several peacemaking organizations that operate in Israel and Palestine.  Christian Peacemaker Teams and Evangelical Accompaniment Program of Israel and Palestine are two of these. They “offer protection through their non-violent presence”, document human rights abuses and work to end violence and oppression.  Both operate in Hebron, accompanying children to school, watching and documenting the actions of soldiers at checkpoints, and supporting peaceful protests. In addition, Breaking the Silence is an organization of former IDF soldiers who tell stories of their military service in the Occupied Territories.

Which brings me to the reason I felt compelled to write this post, at this time.  I visited Hebron in October with a group of Americans.  We had the opportunity to visit the Ibrahimi Mosque.  As we exited and headed towards Shuhada Street, we stopped by a shop located right outside the Mosque. The shop owner, Abed, offered us tea and coffee.  I selected scarves, magnets and some trinkets for my niece while negotiating prices and payment with Muhammed, the shop owner’s son.  In all of my encounters with Palestinians I find them warm and friendly but the folks in this shop were particularly delightful and charming.  

Abed, the shop owner  

Muhammed (L), owner's son

But on February 25^th their shop was attacked.  As reported by Christian Peacemaker Teams on their Facebook page, “This afternoon, Israeli settlers and journalists approached Abed's shop on Shuhada Street in Hebron. One of the settlers, Baruch Marzel, is running in the current Knesset elections. The settlers tried to enter by force and when they were told they weren't welcome, they proceeded to throw around the merchandise, breaking and ruining it. Abed was hit on the head, and his son Mohammed had his hand cut in the attack.”  This is life in Hebron, where a would-be politician can bring his supporters and reporters into a business, trash it and injure the owners…and NOTHING HAPPENS TO HIM.

Abed's store after the attack

When well meaning friends and acquaintances say to me…”if Palestinians just wanted peace, they could have it” or, “what do you expect Israel to do when they are constantly under attack”, I just shake my head and say “no, no, NO.” 

Graffiti on a school in Hebron

That is not how it is.  Who in Hebron is actually under attack?  Who are the victims?  Who are the attackers?

Palestinians, not only in Hebron, but throughout the West Bank and Gaza want to live a normal life.  A life where they can work, send their children to school, have full access to food, water, housing, and freedom of movement in their own communities and country.  A life in which they don’t live in fear of harassment, arrest, destruction of their property, or whether they will be killed by a tear gas canister or stray bullet shot by an overzealous teenage soldier.  

The vast, vast majority of Palestinians don’t fight back against the injustices they suffer daily.  Their everyday lives are an ongoing example of non-violent resistance, something that is rarely reported and for which Palestinians are seldom given credit. And, I have to wonder, as Israel continues to try to crush the life out of Palestinians, what right do they have to complain when Palestinians do fight back?  What would you do in such a situation?

Where does this leave me?  Grieving when I hear stories of suffering and destruction, on both sides of this conflict.  Both sides have suffered.  But only one side has the power to stop it.

What's Next

I am back at home in Atlanta. I have been back exactly four weeks. At times it seems like I was just in Bethlehem yesterday. At others, it seems like an eternity has already passed. I miss being in Bethlehem terribly. But then I missed people at home terribly while I was gone so it is just a trade off, I suppose. While my three months in Bethlehem absolutely flew by, to my loved ones here the time crawled. Funny how that works.

The whirlwind of the holidays has come and gone. Now I find myself facing the reality of being home and in search of “normal”, whatever that might be. My incredible journey to Palestine is officially over, but then, it really isn’t over for me. As I reflect upon my experience and how it fits into my life going forward, I am certain of one thing – I cannot wait to return. Another thing I knew before I went which was confirmed by these three months is that I love the Holy Land and the Palestinian people.  I am and will always be an advocate for them, for their freedom from Israeli occupation, and for the Christian community’s role as living examples of God’s light in darkness and true peacemakers. I have more stories to tell. I will continue to do that in this space, and in person for those who want to hear more. 

Daoud and Daher Nassar (center)

A story that has been on my heart for many weeks is the story of the Nassar family and their farm, called Tent of Nations.  I knew of them before I left and hoped to visit their farm during my stay. When I attended the Christmas Lutheran Church for the first time, I was blessed to meet Daher and Daoud, the two brothers responsible for the farm, over a cup of delicious Arabic coffee served after worship. It turns out that a staff member at Bethlehem Bible College is also a member of the Nassar family.Finally I had the opportunity to visit the farm with a pilgrimage group in October. I made a point of visiting them again my very last day in Bethlehem. Daher, who is the primary caretaker for the farm, was kind enough to bring us out, show us around, and make us several cups of sage tea (that boundless Palestinian hospitality again) while we visited with him and Daoud and several other visitors. I am so honored to call this family, these beautiful people, my friends.   

Illegal settlement near Tent of Nations

The story of the Nassar family is unique. Since 1916 they have lived on a 100 acre farm located on a beautiful hilltop south of Bethlehem. For decades the family grew olives, grapes and other crops, living in caves on the property (as people in Palestine had done for millennia).  After the Six Day War in 1967 the West Bank came under Israeli control and occupation. In 1991 the Israeli government declared the entire area around the Nassar's property state land that would be developed into Israeli settlements, including the Nassar family farm. (Settlements are Jewish only housing blocs in the West Bank that are illegal under international law, use a disproportional amount of local resources like water, often leaving Palestinians with little or none, and are completely counterproductive to the peace process.) Palestinians own all of this land but since it has been in families for literally hundreds of years, Palestinians often have difficulty proving ownership. Not so with the Nassars. They purchased their land from the Ottomans and registered it with the British, which allowed them to mount a legal challenge to the Israelis. After years of delays and expensive appeals, in 2005 the Israeli Supreme Court granted them the right to register their land with Israeli authorities (though they have still not been allowed to do so). 

Driveway blocked with boulders

Composting toilets

But their story does not end there. The Israeli military and residents of the local settlements continue to harass and threaten the Nassar family. Their driveway has been barricaded with huge boulders and slabs of concrete.  The few buildings and structures on their property have been threatened with demolition on multiple occasions. The Israeli military does not allow them to be connected to running water or electric power so they collect all their water in cisterns during the short rainy season in the winter, use composting toilets, and have recently installed solar panels for more reliable electricity. They have received demolition orders for all these things, too, plus other “structures” on their land like low stone walls and even tents used by visitors. Settlers have attempted to have roads built through their property. In the early morning hours on May 19th, the Israeli military entered their property and used bulldozers to uproot and bury 1500 mature fruit trees, all on the verge on being harvested. 

Bulldozed land at bottom of valley

How do the Nassars respond? With grace. With the most incredible amount of grace you can imagine. Certainly with more grace than I could ever hope to possess. They decided early on that they would stay on their land and model peaceful co-existence with their neighbors. They founded Tent of Nations in 2000 to “build bridges between people, and between people to the land." They host thousands of visitors and volunteers each year. They provide courses to train and empower local women and host summer camps for local youth. They have plans to further develop organic farming, alternative energy and recycling. They respond to the “challenges” thrown at them by the Israeli military through all legal channels available to them and, to some degree, have been successful at stopping most threats, at least temporarily. But as long as Israel holds the West Bank under occupation and suffocating military control, they will not be secure.

As for the 1500 destroyed trees? They plan to plant 3000 in their place this spring…”We refuse to be enemies”. I wish I could be there to help.

Entrance to Tent of Nations

"We refuse to be victims. We refuse to hate.  We act because of our faith.  We believe in justice and that the true King of justice will come."

Learn more about Tent of Nations and the Nassar family. Purchase a tree to plant this spring.

I am available to speak to your Sunday school class or group or just meet for coffee.  Just let me know! stacig68@gmail.com