Holy Spirit on the Move

As some of you know, I returned to the Middle East for 11 days this past March. The Outreach Foundation, an organization I have known for many years which supports the Presbyterian Church around the world, invited me to join them on a trip of solidarity to visit Christians in Lebanon and Iraq. 

Map of Northern Iraq before ISIS

Needless to say, the idea of me traveling to a region that is rife with conflict gave my friends and loved ones considerable pause, to put it mildly. But I felt I could not pass up the opportunity to return to Lebanon after an absence of 11 years as well as visit the Presbyterian community in Iraq about whom I’ve heard so much.  God has given me a love for this place, these people and, particular, his church in the Middle East. As Pentecost has just passed and I’ve been reflecting upon this trip, I want to share some of my experiences with you. I can’t share it all in one post but here’s a start.

The vision for this trip was two-fold; to visit the Outreach Foundation’s church partners who are ministering to Iraqi refugees in their midst, both in Lebanon and in northern Iraq and to, hopefully, bring a sense of encouragement and solidarity to both the partners and those who’ve been displaced.

Our team - Mark Mueller from Huntsville, AL,
Marilyn Borst from the Outreach Foundation
and Ben McCaleb from San Antonio, TX. 

We spent three days in Lebanon (which is stable and not experiencing the unrest and violence afflicting their neighbors) and a week in Erbil, capital of the Kurdish region in northern Iraq. Unlike the areas in northern and western Iraq that ISIS controls, the Kurdish region has been under Kurdish control since before the Iraq War and, therefore, is relatively stable, safe and even somewhat prosperous, from what I could tell. As to our safety, our partners in Iraq know their situation intimately and took extreme caution with our safety. In all this, we trusted God to both guide us and protect us.

A little bit of history before I continue. The Presbyterian Church in the Middle East is the product of American and British missionary efforts in the 19^th century. Historic Presbyterian communities exist in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, Iran and Egypt. The Presbyterian Church in Lebanon and Syria is part of one body (the Evangelical Synod of Syria and Lebanon), that predates the creation of these two countries and has approximately 40 churches, the largest of which are primarily in Syria. 

Many of the Syrian churches have suffered greatly since the Syrian civil war broke out in 2011, occasionally getting caught in the crossfire (two churches have been destroyed). 

Evangelical Church of Aleppo, Syria

Presbyterians in several cities are among the millions of Syrians displaced by the fighting. Ironically, several Presbyterian churches welcomed Iraqi refugees during the years of the Iraq War only to see their own members become refugees within their own country a few years later. In addition, refugees from Syria have streamed into Lebanon, swelling that population by 50%. The Synod has responded to this crisis by providing housing, food, medicine and other assistance in Lebanon and Syria, with generous support from the Outreach Foundation. 

What was already a terrible, enduring crisis got exponentially worse last spring and summer when ISIS started claiming large swaths of territory in Syria and Iraq. You’ll recall the horrific stories of ISIS taking over Mosul, destroying churches, and forcing Christians to convert, flee with only the clothes on their back, or die.  You’ll recall the stories of ISIS’ attempts to destroy ancient Yazidi communities, forcing tens of thousands of them onto a remote mountain where many died of exposure. You’ll recall ISIS taking girls and young women captive to be used as slaves or sold as wives. In the face of ISIS, Christians who’ve called the Ninevah Plain of northern Iraq home since, literally, the time of Pentecost fled, leaving behind all they owned as well as a way of life that dates back centuries.

 

The Presbyterian Church in Mosul dates back to the early 1800’s. Early in the Iraq War the church was forced to close due to sectarian violence in the area. In recent years, only one faithful Presbyterian family remained, the al-Saka sisters. 

Mary and Hana al-Saka from Mosul

In the early morning hours on June 6, a date that many Iraqi Christians call “our 9/11”, the sisters left Mosul with only their documents, the church’s official papers, and a few blankets. Like many fleeing in front of ISIS, they assumed they’d return once things settled down and ISIS was forced out. Of course, that did not happen. The sisters have since heard their home and their church have been burned.  They’ve settled in Erbil with no plans to ever return to Mosul. Their hearts are broken but their faith in God and his great provision remains intact.

In the midst of this horror, the Presbyterian Church of Iraq and the Evangelical Synod of Syria and Lebanon are providing refuge and aid. Some Iraqis have fled to Beirut and southern Lebanon where the Synod is providing food and other support. The Presbyterian Church of Kirkuk in Iraq has taken in 16 displaced families, actually housing 72 people on their church property since August of 2014. In addition, they are assisting the Syrian Orthodox Church who’ve had whole villages of Christians displaced.

Displaced family of 8 sharing one room
in the Presbyterian Church of Kirkuk

As this past Sunday was Pentecost, I’ve been reflecting upon my time in Lebanon and Iraq. The meaning of Pentecost resonates much more deeply after spending 11 days in the presence of such faithful witnesses.  Pentecost marks when the Holy Spirit descended upon the disciples and transformed them from frightened and bewildered followers of Jesus into courageous men who would take Christ’s message into the world and eventually face martyrdom.   

Just as the Holy Spirit moved through the early church starting on Pentecost, the Holy Spirit is moving in our world today. Nowhere is that more evident than in the Middle East as his church has endured incredible suffering and persecution, and hundreds have been martyred because they profess faith in Christ.  As a wise pastor and dear friend in Lebanon, Rev. Adeeb Awad, said to me, “God is a God of history. We build on this as we are instruments of God’s will.” No matter what comes next, these faithful Christians are determined to stay, to serve, to be a witness to the Gospel, whatever form that may take.

I have much more to share about my time in Iraq; stories about visiting a camp with 23,000

Children receiving bread rations in
a Yazidi refugee camp

displaced Yazidis, of the courageous work of young Syrian Orthodox priests who shepherded their flocks out of harm’s way in front of ISIS, and of the 16 families living in the Presbyterian Church in Kirkuk. I hope you will come back to read more. 

In the meantime, I invite you to commit to pray for the Christians in the Middle East, particularly those in Syria, Lebanon and Iraq who have stayed and for those who continue to serve the stranger, the refugee, the dispossessed, in Christ’s name. I also invite you to support the Church during these difficult times through a gift to the Outreach Foundation.  As Paul states in his letter to the Romans, “…we know that in all things God works for the good of those who love him, who have been called according to his purpose”. (Roman 8:28)  Only God can know what that “good” might be at this point, but I thank him for faithful servants, none the less.  Until later…

The Story of Hebron

February 24^th marked an important anniversary in the life of Hebron, the ancient biblical site and largest city in the West Bank. Since first visiting Hebron last October I've wanted to share the story of this place. Considering this anniversary and recent events, this seems like the right time.

The Bible first mentions Hebron in Genesis 23 when Abraham purchased a plot of land to serve as a burial cave for his wife Sarah. 

Interior of Ibrahimi Mosque

That burial site, known as the Cave of the Patriarchs and now enclosed by the Ibrahimi Mosque, is the traditional burial place of Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, and Jacob and Leah. David was also anointed King of Israel in Hebron. The city has played a role in many wars, being conquered by the Romans, the Arabs in 636, the Crusaders in 1099, Saladin in 1187 and it became part of the Ottoman Empire in the 1500’s.

Hebron has changed hands many times in the 20^th century, as well, and is now under Israeli military control as part of the Occupied Palestinian Territories in the West Bank. Hebron is one of Judaism’s holiest cities and also a sacred site for Muslims. It is also one of the most intense locations in the struggle between extremist Jewish settlers, the occupying Israeli forces that protect them and the Palestinian community that has resided in Hebron for centuries.

On February 24^th in 1994 American-born doctor and Israeli settler Baruch Goldstein walked into the Ibrahimi Mosque, full during the Ramadan feast, waited for worshipers to kneel in prayer, and opened fire with his military issued rifle. He killed 29 Palestinians and injured 125 more before being beaten to death by other worshipers. Israel, the Diaspora Jewish community and the international community condemned the attack as an act of terror. Yet some hailed his actions as heroic and have made his grave a place of pilgrimage. 

Wire added to protect businesses from settler trash

In the ensuing months and years, things have changed in Hebron but only to the detriment of the victims of this massacre, Palestinians. Immediately following the attack, over 500 Palestinian businesses on Shuhada Street, the main shopping district in Hebron, were forced to close and had their doors welded shut by the Israeli Defense Force (IDF). These shops are still closed 20 years later. 

Parts of Shuhada Street are completely off limits to Palestinians, forcing some families to climb ladders and crawl over walls to gain access into their homes from the rear. What was once a vibrant shopping area now resembles a ghost town where settlers who live above the street regularly pelt Palestinians below with trash and debris.

Israel divided the Ibrahimi Mosque into two halves, one for Muslims and one for the Jewish settlers in Hebron, the extremist community of which Goldstein had been a member. Numerous new checkpoints have been established throughout Hebron, severely restricting the ability of Palestinians to go about daily life, checkpoints that only Palestinians are forced to use. Palestinian children have to pass through these to attend school and are often denied access.

Hebron’s Old City is home to 500 illegal Jewish settlers along with 1500 IDF, border patrol and police to protect and secure their presence. Settlers in Hebron routinely attack and harass Palestinians. Palestinian property (like olive trees) are damaged or destroyed on a regular basis.  Palestinian children are not immune from such abuse, either, as the IDF regularly fires stun grenades and tear gas at school children and their schools.

CPT volunteer walking children to school

They are also harassed and assaulted, by adult settlers, on their way to school. Different laws apply to Jewish settlers than to Palestinians in Hebron.  The IDF can arrest any Palestinian starting at age 12 yet they cannot touch a Jewish settler for any reason.  In fact, the IDF often stands by and watches while Palestinians and their property are attacked by the settlers. Some of the greatest restrictions against and harassment of Palestinians occur in Hebron.

Fortunately, all of these abuses are well documented by bold and heroic volunteers who serve with several peacemaking organizations that operate in Israel and Palestine.  Christian Peacemaker Teams and Evangelical Accompaniment Program of Israel and Palestine are two of these. They “offer protection through their non-violent presence”, document human rights abuses and work to end violence and oppression.  Both operate in Hebron, accompanying children to school, watching and documenting the actions of soldiers at checkpoints, and supporting peaceful protests. In addition, Breaking the Silence is an organization of former IDF soldiers who tell stories of their military service in the Occupied Territories.

Which brings me to the reason I felt compelled to write this post, at this time.  I visited Hebron in October with a group of Americans.  We had the opportunity to visit the Ibrahimi Mosque.  As we exited and headed towards Shuhada Street, we stopped by a shop located right outside the Mosque. The shop owner, Abed, offered us tea and coffee.  I selected scarves, magnets and some trinkets for my niece while negotiating prices and payment with Muhammed, the shop owner’s son.  In all of my encounters with Palestinians I find them warm and friendly but the folks in this shop were particularly delightful and charming.  

Abed, the shop owner  

Muhammed (L), owner's son

But on February 25^th their shop was attacked.  As reported by Christian Peacemaker Teams on their Facebook page, “This afternoon, Israeli settlers and journalists approached Abed's shop on Shuhada Street in Hebron. One of the settlers, Baruch Marzel, is running in the current Knesset elections. The settlers tried to enter by force and when they were told they weren't welcome, they proceeded to throw around the merchandise, breaking and ruining it. Abed was hit on the head, and his son Mohammed had his hand cut in the attack.”  This is life in Hebron, where a would-be politician can bring his supporters and reporters into a business, trash it and injure the owners…and NOTHING HAPPENS TO HIM.

Abed's store after the attack

When well meaning friends and acquaintances say to me…”if Palestinians just wanted peace, they could have it” or, “what do you expect Israel to do when they are constantly under attack”, I just shake my head and say “no, no, NO.” 

Graffiti on a school in Hebron

That is not how it is.  Who in Hebron is actually under attack?  Who are the victims?  Who are the attackers?

Palestinians, not only in Hebron, but throughout the West Bank and Gaza want to live a normal life.  A life where they can work, send their children to school, have full access to food, water, housing, and freedom of movement in their own communities and country.  A life in which they don’t live in fear of harassment, arrest, destruction of their property, or whether they will be killed by a tear gas canister or stray bullet shot by an overzealous teenage soldier.  

The vast, vast majority of Palestinians don’t fight back against the injustices they suffer daily.  Their everyday lives are an ongoing example of non-violent resistance, something that is rarely reported and for which Palestinians are seldom given credit. And, I have to wonder, as Israel continues to try to crush the life out of Palestinians, what right do they have to complain when Palestinians do fight back?  What would you do in such a situation?

Where does this leave me?  Grieving when I hear stories of suffering and destruction, on both sides of this conflict.  Both sides have suffered.  But only one side has the power to stop it.

What's Next

I am back at home in Atlanta. I have been back exactly four weeks. At times it seems like I was just in Bethlehem yesterday. At others, it seems like an eternity has already passed. I miss being in Bethlehem terribly. But then I missed people at home terribly while I was gone so it is just a trade off, I suppose. While my three months in Bethlehem absolutely flew by, to my loved ones here the time crawled. Funny how that works.

The whirlwind of the holidays has come and gone. Now I find myself facing the reality of being home and in search of “normal”, whatever that might be. My incredible journey to Palestine is officially over, but then, it really isn’t over for me. As I reflect upon my experience and how it fits into my life going forward, I am certain of one thing – I cannot wait to return. Another thing I knew before I went which was confirmed by these three months is that I love the Holy Land and the Palestinian people.  I am and will always be an advocate for them, for their freedom from Israeli occupation, and for the Christian community’s role as living examples of God’s light in darkness and true peacemakers. I have more stories to tell. I will continue to do that in this space, and in person for those who want to hear more. 

Daoud and Daher Nassar (center)

A story that has been on my heart for many weeks is the story of the Nassar family and their farm, called Tent of Nations.  I knew of them before I left and hoped to visit their farm during my stay. When I attended the Christmas Lutheran Church for the first time, I was blessed to meet Daher and Daoud, the two brothers responsible for the farm, over a cup of delicious Arabic coffee served after worship. It turns out that a staff member at Bethlehem Bible College is also a member of the Nassar family.Finally I had the opportunity to visit the farm with a pilgrimage group in October. I made a point of visiting them again my very last day in Bethlehem. Daher, who is the primary caretaker for the farm, was kind enough to bring us out, show us around, and make us several cups of sage tea (that boundless Palestinian hospitality again) while we visited with him and Daoud and several other visitors. I am so honored to call this family, these beautiful people, my friends.   

Illegal settlement near Tent of Nations

The story of the Nassar family is unique. Since 1916 they have lived on a 100 acre farm located on a beautiful hilltop south of Bethlehem. For decades the family grew olives, grapes and other crops, living in caves on the property (as people in Palestine had done for millennia).  After the Six Day War in 1967 the West Bank came under Israeli control and occupation. In 1991 the Israeli government declared the entire area around the Nassar's property state land that would be developed into Israeli settlements, including the Nassar family farm. (Settlements are Jewish only housing blocs in the West Bank that are illegal under international law, use a disproportional amount of local resources like water, often leaving Palestinians with little or none, and are completely counterproductive to the peace process.) Palestinians own all of this land but since it has been in families for literally hundreds of years, Palestinians often have difficulty proving ownership. Not so with the Nassars. They purchased their land from the Ottomans and registered it with the British, which allowed them to mount a legal challenge to the Israelis. After years of delays and expensive appeals, in 2005 the Israeli Supreme Court granted them the right to register their land with Israeli authorities (though they have still not been allowed to do so). 

Driveway blocked with boulders

Composting toilets

But their story does not end there. The Israeli military and residents of the local settlements continue to harass and threaten the Nassar family. Their driveway has been barricaded with huge boulders and slabs of concrete.  The few buildings and structures on their property have been threatened with demolition on multiple occasions. The Israeli military does not allow them to be connected to running water or electric power so they collect all their water in cisterns during the short rainy season in the winter, use composting toilets, and have recently installed solar panels for more reliable electricity. They have received demolition orders for all these things, too, plus other “structures” on their land like low stone walls and even tents used by visitors. Settlers have attempted to have roads built through their property. In the early morning hours on May 19th, the Israeli military entered their property and used bulldozers to uproot and bury 1500 mature fruit trees, all on the verge on being harvested. 

Bulldozed land at bottom of valley

How do the Nassars respond? With grace. With the most incredible amount of grace you can imagine. Certainly with more grace than I could ever hope to possess. They decided early on that they would stay on their land and model peaceful co-existence with their neighbors. They founded Tent of Nations in 2000 to “build bridges between people, and between people to the land." They host thousands of visitors and volunteers each year. They provide courses to train and empower local women and host summer camps for local youth. They have plans to further develop organic farming, alternative energy and recycling. They respond to the “challenges” thrown at them by the Israeli military through all legal channels available to them and, to some degree, have been successful at stopping most threats, at least temporarily. But as long as Israel holds the West Bank under occupation and suffocating military control, they will not be secure.

As for the 1500 destroyed trees? They plan to plant 3000 in their place this spring…”We refuse to be enemies”. I wish I could be there to help.

Entrance to Tent of Nations

"We refuse to be victims. We refuse to hate.  We act because of our faith.  We believe in justice and that the true King of justice will come."

Learn more about Tent of Nations and the Nassar family. Purchase a tree to plant this spring.

I am available to speak to your Sunday school class or group or just meet for coffee.  Just let me know! stacig68@gmail.com 

The Wall

The Wall.  Known to Israelis as the Security Barrier.  Known to Palestinians as the Apartheid Wall.  Known to me as one of the most hideous scars in this ancient city and beautiful land.   From my location on Jerusalem-Hebron Road in Bethlehem, I can see it out the front windows of the Guest House and out my window on the back side of the Guest House.  It is one of the harsh realities of life in the West Bank, and something that I have faced, quite literally, since the day I arrived, but have chosen not to write about until now.  The Wall runs through Bethlehem and, when it was erected, cut off dozens of businesses and families from the rest of Bethlehem.  Not surprisingly, those businesses failed and an Israeli settlement is now being built in that area instead.

Down the street from me

Israel claims the Wall was built for security reasons, to stop suicide bombings during the Second Intifada in the early 2000’s.  I won’t take space here to argue whether or not the decline in suicide bombings can be directly attributed to the construction of the Wall. Arguments can easily be made both ways. Suffice it to say that Wall is not yet complete and it is quite possible to get around it if one is determined to do so.  Instead, I will talk about what the Wall is and what is means to Palestinian life.

Where the Wall is complete (like in and around Bethlehem and Jerusalem), it is 28 feet high.  The Berlin Wall was 11 feet high.  In many places it is extensive electrified fencing with 60 foot exclusion zones on either side. If the Wall were truly for security, it would run along the Green Line which marks the 1967 boundary between Israel and the West Bank and East Jerusalem and has been the starting point for negotiations in the peace process. Instead, 85 percent of the Wall runs inside the Green Line.   If it ran along the Green Line, it would be 200 miles long. Instead, its final proposed route is over 400 miles long and zigzags in and around Palestinian villages, agricultural land and water resources.  It divides some Palestinian towns right down the middle, separating farmers from their land, workers from their jobs and students from their schools.  Other towns are completely surrounded by it. When completed, the Wall will annex almost half of the West Bank into Israel, leaving Palestinians living in isolated ghettos with access between these areas strictly controlled by Israel.  In practice, this system is already in place.   As of February, there are 99 checkpoints in the West Bank and between the West Bank and Israel.  Palestinians are required to get a permit to enter Israel, and permits are most often denied.

What does this mean for Palestinian life?  For farmers cut off from their property, it means they cannot farm and will possibly lose their land due to Israel’s draconian Absentee Owner law which states that if farmland is left fallow for four years it becomes “state” land. The Wall enables Israel to take Palestinian land from its owners who, because of the Wall, cannot access it.  Palestinian agricultural products often can’t get to markets in Israel, or outside of Israel for that matter since Israel controls all borders.  Fruits and vegetables either rot or farmers give up because the available markets in the West Bank are glutted. Farmers then, for economic reasons, don’t farm their land and the Wall wins again. For Palestinians with work permits for Israel, it means arriving at crowded checkpoints by 5am, waiting for hours to get through, and making sure to get back before the checkpoint closes for the evening. 

Bethlehem checkpoint

Getting through a checkpoint can mean having all your belonging dumped out on the ground, being searched, harassed, humiliated, and detained and even denied entry.  People in need of urgent medical care after checkpoints have closed for the day are often denied entry to Israel for treatment.  Though it is hard to find complete numbers, in recent years dozens of people have died at checkpoints attempting to get medical care.  The same goes for women in labor.  Dozens of babies have been born at – and died at – checkpoints, along with their mothers.  I have Palestinian Christian friends in Bethlehem who have not been to the Holy Sites in Jerusalem, which is literally only a 15 minute drive, because they cannot get a permit.  With my American passport, I can easily pass through checkpoints.  My Palestinian friends with American passports cannot.  Their passport says they were born in Palestine so they are subjected to different rules than me.

The Palestinian village of Bil’in has organized weekly demonstrations since 2005 to protest

Protests in Bil'in

the construction of the Wall whose route separates the village from more than half of its agricultural land.  Another draconian Israeli military law states that a protest or even a procession of 10 or more people is illegal and the military is then allowed to forcefully disperse the protesters.  Israeli border guards in Bil’in regularly use stun grenades, tear gas and rubber coated bullets to disband these demonstrations, maiming and even killing peaceful Palestinian protesters. Very seldom, if ever, are perpetrators from the Israeli security forces held accountable for these injuries and deaths.

View from Wi'am

So, what does the Wall mean in Bethlehem?  Simply put, it is huge and ugly.  Vehicular traffic at the checkpoint between Bethlehem and Jerusalem is very slow moving during rush hour.  I can only imagine how much worse it is for the hundreds of Palestinians who stand in line for hours to pass through on foot, especially in the sweltering heat of summer.  The Wall snakes in and around greater Bethlehem and especially around the many illegal Israeli settlements built on hilltops surrounding Bethlehem, separating this Palestinian land from the West Bank.  The Wall contributes to high unemployment in Bethlehem and even higher employment throughout the rest of the West Bank. Israel controls all access to water in the West Bank so water is scarce in agricultural areas and expensive in Bethlehem where it has to be purchased. At Wi’am, a Christian ministry down the street from me that is right next to the wall, soldiers spray “skunk water” on Palestinian children playing in their playground. 

Note skunk water canyon above bush

In this beautiful, ancient city where Christ was born, the vile reality of Occupation stares residents and visitors alike in the face. It is ugly. It is harsh. It is oppressive.

Where is God in this place?  He is shown in the determination of Palestinians to live as normal a life as possible.  He is shown in the faces of parents who send their children to school for the same reason parents around the world do – so that they might have a better life.  He is shown in the steadfastness of Christians here who, at less than 2% of the population, are a faithful remnant of what used to be a large and vibrant community tracing their roots back to the day of Pentecost, literally, the “living stones”.   I stand in awe of their witness, their resolve, their hope. 

Mafraq, Jordan

Like me, you’ve probably never heard of Mafraq, Jordan before.  Mafraq is in the far northern part of Jordan, only a 30 minute drive to the border of Syria. Because of that proximity, over the last three years it has become a place of refuge for 100,000 Syrians fleeing from hostilities in their home country.  That is slightly less than the population of Clearwater, Florida, my hometown.  Mafraq already had 90,000 citizens so their population has essentially doubled in the past three years.  Most of these refugees live in the Zaatari refugee camp but many also live in dismal apartments and rented rooms in this city that is bursting at the seams.  There is also a new refugee community in Amman as Iraqi Christians from Mosul have fled the horror of ISIS, most with only the clothes on their back, many being traumatized by people who used to be their neighbors.  The Shepherd Society, the charitable arm of BBC, sent two serving teams to Jordan and I was part of the one to Mafraq.

The Alliance Church in Mafraq

The Alliance Church in Mafraq has jumped into action to respond to the crisis on their doorstep. They meet the most immediate needs of refugees by providing clothing, food, baby supplies and diapers.  They have started a small school in their church for first and second graders. Abby, a volunteer from the US, runs the school and the children are thriving under her care and tutelage. They adore her and are so happy to have a safe and carefree place to go.   The Church is completing construction on a community center that will open in January and provide a bigger space for the school as well as English language and skills training classes for the refugees. The Church also has a home visit ministry through which they develop relationships with refugee families.

Abby, her student, and his family

Our team had the opportunity to break into small group and participate in home visits.  In four days, I visited ten Syrian families.  I can hardly find the right words to describe these visits, but let me try a few….helpless, sorrowful, disheartened, humbled, gracious, encouraged, grateful. The stories of these families share a few common elements – most have lost husbands and sons.   Most have family still in Syria as well as Lebanon and Turkey and other countries.  Four of the ten families I met have children with various disabilities, some severe and life threatening.  Three of these four families each had two children with disabilities; each child was precious and so loved by their families.

Two brothers with special needs

All these families are in a state of limbo, waiting for some change to the situation so that they might return home.  Each family served us tea, lots and lots of tea, along with sweets or nuts or even popcorn in one home.  One family made us a sweet and a savory bread pastry. I have always known that Arab culture is one of great hospitality so I was not surprised by any of this, but was instead filled with humble gratitude at their generosity in the midst of poverty. Hospitality is second nature in this part of the world, regardless of your circumstances.

All of the families were met we either from Daraa, near the border, or Homs, a large city that was devastated in the first year of hostilities and which I visited with Peachtree in 2004.  I know (or knew) a family in Homs and worshiped at the Evangelical Church.  The Church was severely damaged by a falling shell and the family I knew has left, but at least I had this small connection to share.  I had visited their city back when it was beautiful and whole.  One mother told us the people of this church were the only ones who had offered them any support.  Another woman who lost her husband and her son told us she’d been crying all night but had her spirits lifted by our visit and felt God had sent us to minister just to her. 

Mother who lost a husband and son

All the families we met were Muslim.  All were so grateful for our presence with them, for our encouragement in the midst of their suffering, and especially for our prayers.  One mother even asked us to pray for her family because God answers the prayers of the Christians.

One thing I know for certain – I have no experience with true suffering, none whatsoever, especially to the degree that the Syrian and Iraqi people in Jordan face.  What do I say that can mean anything to them?  I cannot relate to such suffering.  I can only say I am sorry and I will pray for them, which I did then and will continue to do.  I invite you to pray with me for these refugees, and for a peaceful end to the chaos in Syria and Iraq.  If you would like to support the Shepherd Society’s ministry to refugees in Jordan, click here. 

Our team and church members

Extended family with 12 children

Cast of Characters

One of the best things about my time in Bethlehem has been the visitors that have come through the Guesthouse.  The very beginning weeks of my stay set a great tone for my stay.  Bethlehem Bible College’s Guesthouse can accommodate about 30 people, though it has not been close to that full since I have been here.  During the past eight weeks we’ve had between 5 and 18 guests most of the time including BBC volunteers like myself.  Part of the deal is that guests and volunteers get breakfast each morning so that has been the best opportunity to meet and chat with people. 

Until this past Monday our Guesthouse managers were Paul and Miriam from upstate New York.  They’ve been here since May and are part of the Bruderhof community, which I was completely unfamiliar with until I met them.  Founded in 1920 in Germany, the Bruderhof is an international communal movement of families and single men and women who seek to put into action Christ’s command to love God and neighbor.  

Paul and Miriam

Paul and Miriam picked me up at the airport, and have provided delicious breakfast and wonderful friendship for the past eight weeks.  They know the ropes here in Bethlehem including where to worship, how to use the bus, and what is the best place to get fresh fruit and vegetable (across the street!) They are two of the most humble people I’ve ever met; servants of Christ in the truest sense of the word.  Miriam has a wicked sense of humor and a twinkle in her eye, and Paul is always willing to share words of wisdom over Miriam’s delicious omelettes.  I may not see them until we meet again in heaven but they have been a vital part of my time here.

When I first arrived, two other “P’s” were here along with Paul…Palmer and Peter, soon followed by Patricia.  Palmer’s a Canadian with the Mennonite Church and to me he is a rock star.  He is close to my parents’ age yet he is here in Palestine, teaching in the college, sharing messages at Chapel and connecting with the locals, including a young friend named Mohammed whom he met at the Mosque right across the street.  Yes, Palmer has no qualms about entering the neighborhood Mosque in order to meet and befriend Muslims.  This is how you share the Gospel message, by building relationships with non-believers. Palmer also spent two weeks teaching at the College’s study center in Gaza.  Yes, you read that right…this incredible servant of God came here specifically to teach 12 BBC students who live in Gaza. Palmer also embodies a spirit of true servanthood, wherever and whenever and with whomever, that astounds and inspires me.  My first Saturday here I explored the Old City in Jerusalem with Palmer.  It was a day I will not forget.

Peter and his wife Patricia are lovely Brits from a town near Windsor.  Peter is a pastor that was here on Sabbatical and Patricia came to share her skills as a palliative care doctor with a local hospital. They became dear friends over many cups

Peter and Patricia

of tea, a few (quite a few, actually) dinners at local eateries and many lengthy discussions about Palestine and Israel.  At the same time Judi from Dallas was visiting for the second time this year.  Judi is a volleyball coach who founded a sport ministry that brings women’s volleyball teams on trips to build bridges of understanding through sports.  She came this fall to pour herself into one-on-one relationships she has with young local women who play volleyball.

We've had several visitors from the Seattle area (Lance, Jim and Ken from a Presbyterian Church I know) here to lead Celebrate Recovery workshops, as well as a seemingly endless array of lovely Brits, all of whom had visited Israel and Palestine previously and returned to learn more and better understand Palestine and Israel and the conflict.  As expected, many cups of tea were shared with these Brits as well!  Luke came from Chattanooga to use his training as a Physical Therapist to serve kids with special needs at the House of Hope down the street and Stephen came from California to pay one of his numerous visits to Gaza, providing much needed support and supplies.

Plannning team and other BBC friends

Some of my favorite days were when the planning committee for Christ at the Checkpoint, a huge conference that BBC organizes, was here for two days of meetings.  Wow, what a great opportunity to meet some global leaders who are truly making an impact for peace and reconciliation. They know so much about Israel and Palestine that just sitting at the breakfast table with them was a privilege.  I can now count these very cool people as my friends, too! 

Then there are the long-termers like me.  Beverley is from Canada and has lived and served in the Middle East for more than 30 years.  She knows the lay of the land in Israel and Palestine almost like a native.  She is here for several months teaching English and has been my guide to all things Bethlehem (most of which seem to involve walking up many hills). 

Beverley and Palmer

Beverley recently hosted a group of 11 women from her church and their delightful presence filled up the Guesthouse (and breakfast table) for two full weeks. Theodora arrived from Cincinnati three weeks after me and, though she has never been here before, heard the story of BBC and felt God was calling her to come and serve.  She also teaches English. Michael, an Egyptian-American, is a recent addition to the BBC staff.  He is the BBC Chaplain and is engaged to Grace, a local girl and BBC faculty member.  They will get married in the spring. Our most recent guests, from Germany, were here for six days simply to pray with and for the College as well as various ministries around Bethlehem.

As of today, we have only one guest so it is very quiet.  I miss the hubbub that goes on when there are guests coming and going so I hope some new people come soon.   Though, honestly, I have met so many new people over the breakfast table in recent weeks that I am a bit overwhelmed with names and faces and stories and places.  A few days of quiet will not be so bad either.  My time here is winding down and before long I will have my last meal at our breakfast table.  That hour each morning has been some of the richest parts of my days in Bethlehem.  I will be sad to see them come to an end.

Jerusalem Seethes

It was not my plan to post anymore about the Temple Mount/Haram al-Sharif, but I am sure many of you are watching the news and seeing that there has been a great deal of unrest in Jerusalem.  Here is a brief (or not so brief) explanation about what exactly has been happening over the few weeks, as well as the preceding months, that has led us to this point.  Bear with me for this...as you should know by now, what goes on here is complicated. I apologize for any repetition from my last post but it is important to have a full picture of this conflict.

Sign at Temple Mount/Haram al-Sharif

For decades, Jewish religious authorities have forbidden Jews from going onto the Temple Mount in Jerusalem.  This is the holiest site in Judaism and they believe the Holy of Holies was located there somewhere.  They do not want any Jews to accidentally step on the Holy of Holies since no one knows exactly where on the Temple Mount it was located.  This edict has largely been followed by the Jewish community. They can pray at the Western Wall but not on the Temple Mount.

The Temple Mount is known as the Haram al-Sharif to Muslims and is the third holiest site in Islam. The Muslim holy sites on the Temple Mount (Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque) are administered by an Islamic religious trust under Jordanian authority. This arrangement has also been in place for decades.

In more recent years, Jews have been visiting the Temple Mount in small numbers, but have been forbidden from praying, as are any visitors who aren't Muslim including tourists and pilgrims like me. Over the past year, and increasingly in recent months, Jewish religious extremists have insisted on visiting the Temple Mount more regularly, entering Al-Aqsa Mosque (where they believe the Holy of Holies was located) and even praying in the Mosque. These Jewish religious extremists are always accompanied by a significant force of Israeli police who allow them to go and keep the Muslim clerics in charge of this area from preventing their entry. 

This has angered Palestinians, especially since there are great restrictions on Palestinians going to the Temple Mount/ Haram al-Sharif to worship in their own holy sites.  Palestinian men under 50 are often forbidden access as are Palestinians in the West Bank and Gaza since they need to have a permit to go to Jerusalem and permits are rarely granted. There is also fear among Palestinians that as Jewish religious extremists are given more and more access to the Al Aqsa Mosque, it becomes more likely that Israeli authorities will take it over and divide part of it into a temple for the Jewish community (which has already happened at the Ibrahimi Mosque in Hebron).

Palestinians express their frustration in protests, which most often involves young men throwing stones, the only “weapon” readily available to them, at Israeli security forces.  However, over the last two weeks, in three separate incidents, Palestinian men have used their cars as weapon, driving them into crowds. Four Israelis were killed and many others injured.  All three Palestinian men have been killed by the police. Another Palestinian man shot and seriously wounded Yehuda Glick who is one of the Jewish religious extremists leading the move to force their way into Al Aqsa Mosque.  

The family homes of each of these Palestinian men will be demolished and their families will be left homeless. Other men in their families will very possibly be jailed, whether or not they had anything to do with the attack.

Also this week, Israeli police forced their way into As-Aqsa Mosque. When Muslim worshippers tried to block their access to the Mosque, the Israeli police assaulted them, firing tear gas, stun grenades and rubber bullets. In their holy place of worship.  And of course, the police stormed in carrying weapons and wearing shoes which is also a great affront to Muslim worshippers.

So, Palestinians continue to protest.  Israeli security forces continue to try to stop them with tear gas and rubber bullets.  Jewish religious extremists continue to force their own agenda on the Temple Mount/Haram Al-Sharif . Not surprisingly, Jerusalem is seething.  Add to that decades of neglect and abuse of the Palestinian community in East Jerusalem by the Israeli government and the continuous building of Jewish-only settlements in East Jerusalem, is it any wonder that Palestinians lash out?  

Israel publicly blames all this on Palestinian Authority President Mahmoud Abbas, but he has virtually no power or authority over Palestinians in East Jerusalem so this is absolute hogwash, to quote my daddy.  In short, Israel knows what buttons to push and they are pushing them.  It is tragic and unacceptable that these Palestinian men have attacked innocent civilians.  They have certainly paid for it, as they are dead, and their families will pay for it for years to come.  But it is also tragic and unacceptable for Israeli authorities to allow extremists in the Jewish community to force their way in Muslim holy sites at gunpoint, which is what has incited the unrest in the last three weeks.  There are many more layers to and reasons for these most recent events than this short explanation allows.  That is for another day.

Protests do spill over into the West Bank and Gaza with, yes, young Palestinian men throwing stones and Israeli security forces responding with tear gas and rubber bullets.  There have been some protests in and around Bethlehem but I am fine and safe and well.  My friends and colleagues at Bethlehem Bible College are used to it as part of life here.  That is the most tragic part of all.